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E. C. Kraus
HOME WINE MAKING NEWSLETTER
Issue Number 26
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*About This Newsletter*
The E. C. Kraus Home Wine Making Newsletter is a FREE
publication
that covers issues and topics of general interest to the
home
winemaker. You may pass this newsletter on to friends
and others,
as long as it is used in its entirety.
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IN THIS ISSUE:
* How Much Alcohol Do You Really Want?
* Winemaker's Glossary: Mead
* Letter: What Are These Beady Little Crystals In My
Wine?
* Wine Recipe Ideas: Cherry Berry Wine
* Top Ten Reasons For Fermentation Failure
* Wine Making Quick Tip
* Additional Home Winemaking Information
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*WANT TO LEARN HOW TO MAKE WINE?*
E. C. Kraus is here to help. For over 35 years, we have
been
providing individuals with the informational tools and
supplies
they need to become successful home winemakers.
Our web site features recipes, articles and valuable
bits of
information that will make your home winemaking
adventures a fun
and fascinating experience.
For a jump-start into the world of winemaking see the
following
article listed on our web site:
"How To Get
Started"
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*HOW MUCH ALCOHOL DO YOU REALLY WANT?*
Often we receive calls from anxious, first-time
winemakers
wanting information on how to make their wines with more
alcohol.
Nothing wrong with that, if that's what they really
want.
Driving up the alcohol in a wine is not all that
difficult. With
a little know-how you can achieve 15-16 percent, but you
do have
to know what you're doing. Going at it blindly can lead
to
problems in the form of a "stuck fermentation,"
resulting in a
wine that's disgustingly sweet.
You can read more about how to properly produce a high
alcohol
wine at the following page on our web site:
"Making
High Alcohol Wines"
While producing higher alcohol wines is do-able, the
real
question is, "Is that what you really want to do?"
Having more
alcohol in your wine comes at a price. Wines with higher
alcohol
can taste out of balance or "watery." This is because of
the
numbing effects that alcohol has on the tongue's taste
buds. It
diminishes the taste bud's ability to taste, giving the
wine a
watery impression. The result is a wine that has a lot
of alcohol
but little flavor.
Another issue that contributes to this problem is that
with most
high alcohol wines, the alcohol is driven up by adding
more
refined sugar than the recipe calls for, usually cane
sugar. This
sugar contributes no additional flavor qualities worth
mentioning
to the wine, but it will ferment and contribute to the
wine's
ending alcohol level.
With wines that have a normal alcohol level, 9 to 13
percent, a
significant portion of the sugars are coming from the
fruit. For
example, wines that are produced from grapes grown in
the wine
regions of California, have no refined sugars added to
them at
all. All of the alcohol is being fermented from natural
sugars
that are contributed by the grapes themselves. This is
what
produces a wine of balance.
Most recipes you will find in wine making books that
involve
smaller berries such as blackberry, raspberry,
strawberry and
such, do not use 100 percent fruit to supply the sugars
for
fermentation. These smaller fruits are stronger in
flavor than,
for example, grapes.
These smaller berry wines do require some water and some
sugar to
dilute the stronger flavors of these smaller fruits. If
not
diluted, these fruits would produce a wine so strong and
puckering in flavor that no one could possible drink
them. It all
comes down to a recipe that gives the wine a balanced
flavor.
For one to increase the potential alcohol level of any
of these
balanced wine recipes by simply adding more sugar, is to
take the
wine out of balance--more tongue-numbing alcohol but no
more
flavor to compete.
What this all boils down to is, if you want to increase
the
alcohol level of a wine, you must do it in a way that
keeps the
wine balanced. If you are planning on raising the
alcohol level of
a recipe by adding more plain sugar, also plan on
increasing the
amount of fruit you use as well. Try to keep the ratio
of fruit
and sugar in tack, regardless of the size of the batch.
Here's an example. Suppose you have a 5 gallon wine
recipe that
calls for 20 pounds of fruit and 10 pounds of sugar. The
rest of
the volume is made up with water. After mixing all the
ingredients together you discover by taking a
hydrometer reading
that there are enough total sugars in the must to
produce a wine
with 12 percent alcohol. What this means to you as
someone
wanting to increase the potential alcohol of the wine,
is that
for every additional pound of sugar you add to this
recipe, you
should also add 2 pounds of fruit to keep it in balance.
More
fruit flavor to compete with the additional numbing
effects of
the added alcohol.
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*WINEMAKER'S GLOSSARY*
MEAD
Any wine that is made completely from honey as a source
of flavor
is considered a Mead, but other wines that incorporate
honey into
their recipe can potentially be called a mead as well.
There are
several sub-categories of Meads that include the
following
deviations.
* Pyment - Grape wine that has the addition of some
honey.
* Cyser - Mead made along with apple juice (cider).
* Molemel - Mead made with some fruit added.
* Metheglyn - Mead made with the addition of herbs and
spices.
* Hippocras - Pyment, as listed above, with herbs and
spices.
--To learn more about making your own Meads and to get
some good
recipes, see the following article listed on our web
site:
"Making Wine
With Honey"
--To see other winemaking glossary words, go to the
following
link on our web site:
"Home Wine
Making Glossary"
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*LETTER: What Are These Beady Little Crystals In My
Wine?
Dear E. C. Kraus,
Last year I made some grape wine out of fresh picked
grapes. I
went thru all the procedures everything went great. I
bottled
about a month ago and kept the majority of the bottles
in my
basement where the wine making takes place. I took a
couple dozen
of them out to my shed. . . . The temp out there gets
down to 40
degrees to where my basement stays at about 65 degrees.
I take a
bottle that has been subjected to the chilly temps or a
bottle
that I have had in the fridge and I see crystals inside
the
bottle like maybe sugar? I did sweeten this batch a
little but I
dissolved the sugar, added it and then put in the
recomended
amount of asorbic acid and sorbate.
My question is what are these beady little crystals? And
why are
they only in the wine that has been chilled?
Thanks,
Gary N.
4th year wine maker
1st time grape
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Dear Gary,
What you are experiencing is the formation of acid
crystals in
the wine. It is a common problem for wines made from
fresh
grapes, but it can potentially occur in any wine. It is
not
something that is unique to home winemakers either.
Large
wineries have to deal with it just the same as home
winemakers.
So, don't necessarily feel that you've done anything
wrong. Just
realize that there are ways to eliminate this problem
from
occurring in future batches.
These acid crystals occur when the wine has more acid
than it can
handle. In other words, the wine is unstable. The wine
contains
more acid than it can hold, from a chemical standpoint.
The
result is the precipitation of acid crystals--the wine's
little,
annoying way of working towards stability.
Of the major acids you will find in fruits, Tartaric
becomes
unstable in the wine the easiest. This is also the main
fruit
acid found in grapes. This explains why acid stability
is a more
common issue in fresh grape wines verses other types of
wines.
The Tartaric acid precipitates out in the form of
potassium
bitartrate, more commonly know as "cream of tarter." It
is
completely harmless and safely consumable, but
obviously,
visually unappealing in wine, at times being mistaken
for bits of
broken glass.
Cooling the wine speeds up the precipitation of these
crystals.
That's why you had the problem only after moving the
bottles to a
cooler place, but you may discover that, given enough
time, your
other bottles of wine may develop the potassium
bitartrate
crystals, just the same.
Filtering your wine before bottling is not a solution to
this
type of problem. This is because the crystals have not
occurred
yet and there's nothing to be filtered. Whether a wine
has been
filtered or not, will have no bearing on the likely hood
of these
crystals forming.
The way the wineries approach this issue and a way that
home
winemakers should as well, is to chill the wine down
ahead of
time, while it is still in bulk. This is a process known
as "cold
stabilization." By going through this process you will
cause any
unstable acids to precipitate out before bottling. Once
all the
crystals have settled out, the wine can be safely racked
off of
them and bottled.
Now, realize that there will be instances where no
crystals will
form, no matter what. These are cases where the wine is
already
"cold stable." So, don't be surprised if you chill down
a wine
and nothing happens.
The recommended temperature range for the cold
stabilization
process is between 35 and 45 degrees F. The length of
time
required can vary based on the actual temperature used
and the
severity of the instability. In most cases, 3 or 4 days
is all
that is necessary, but in some of the more extreme
cases, it may
require as much time as 2 weeks.
I would also like to point out that this is a problem
that will
not occur with grape wine kits if their directions are
followed.
These packaged juices have been treated and balanced in
a way
that eliminates this potential problem.
You might also want to take a look at the following
article
listed on our web site:
"Maintaining
Stability In Your Wines"
This article not only covers the issues of potassium
bitartrate
precipitation, but it also goes into some of the other
instabilities that can occur in a wine.
I hope this helps you out.
Best Wishes,
Customer Service at E. C. Kraus
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*WINE RECIPE IDEAS: Cherry Berry Wine
Here is an interesting recipe that one of our customers
came up
with. He said it came out very fruity and planned on
making it
again in the near future with
County Fair Blackberry in place of
the Cherry.
Cherry Berry Wine
(Makes 5 Gallons)
1 Can
County Fair Cherry
1 Can
County Fair Raspberry
2 lbs. Cranberry Raisins, coarsely chopped
10 lbs. Sugar
6 Teaspoons
Acid Blend
5 Teaspoons
Yeast Nutrient
1/2 Teaspoon
Wine Tannin
1 Teaspoon
Pectic Enzyme
1 Pkg. Wine Yeast (Lalvin
ICV D-47 recommended)
Water to total batch to 5 gallons
For the basic procedures follow the directions you will
find on
the side of either can of County Fair.
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*TOP 10 REASONS FOR FERMENTATION FAILURE*
Reason #7
Fermentation Has Already Completed:
In a twisted way, you may not be getting a fermentation
because
the fermentation has already completed. Many ask, "how
could this
be?" It's almost like experiencing an unbelievable magic
trick.
"How did my wine do that?" But, after checking the wine
with a
hydrometer, the truth becomes clear. The juice
fermented, and you
didn't even know it.
Relax, its really not your fault. And, there's really no
problem,
anyway. Most wine making directions you run across will
lead you
to believe that all fermentations will take anywhere
from 4 to 6
weeks. But in reality, if the conditions are right, a
fermentation can complete in as little as seven days.
Yes, that's
right "seven days." We have personally experienced
fermentations
that have completed in as little as five days, but this
is far
more rare.
The only real way to know where you stand with your
fermentation's progress is to take a
hydrometer reading. The
hydrometer has the final say as to what has actually
happened. If
you take a hydrometer reading and you discover that the
Specific
Gravity is 0.998 or less, well then, yes, the wine is
done
fermenting. If this is the case, there is really nothing
else for
you to do other than continue on with rest of the
directions
ahead of schedule.
Many first-time winemakers will get the notion that they
should
add more sugar if there fermentation completes quickly.
If you
have added the correct amount of sugar at the beginning
of
fermentation, this would not be the right thing to do.
Just because a fermentation only lasted a week or so,
does not
mean the wine has any less alcohol than a fermentation
that took
2 months. Time does not control the amount of alcohol
made, the
amount of sugar available to the yeast does. Adding more
sugar at
this point will only complicate the situation.
For example, if your starting hydrometer reading
indicates that
you have enough sugar in the must to produce 12 percent
alcohol,
you will have 12 percent alcohol once all those sugars
are
fermented, regardless of the amount of time it takes.
And, you
will know when all those sugars have been fermented by
the fact
that the hydrometer reads 0.998 or less on the Specific
Gravity
Scale.
Many ask, "why does this happen?" The fact of the matter
is,
there are many reasons why a fermentation might go fast
or slow.
There are an endless number of variables that can come
into play
when dealing with Mother Nature. But having said this, a
large
percentage of the time it is temperature related.
All things being the same, musts that are 75 degrees F.
or higher
will ferment much, much faster than a must that is 70
degrees F
or less. The amount of yeast that is pitched into the
must can
make a difference. Two packs of yeast will ferment the
same
juice, not twice as fast, but faster that one pack of
yeast will.
If the yeast is pre-started ahead of time, this can
influence the
rate of fermentation as well. Not only does pre-starting
the
yeast allow the yeast cells to hit the juice with their
feet
running, so to speak, but it also allows the yeast to
multiply in
number, ahead of time, which could contribute to having
an
explosive fermentation.
Having a fast fermentation is neither a good thing or
bad thing.
But the reasons that caused it to ferment fast may be
bad. For
example, if you had a fast fermentation that was caused
by warmer
temperatures, this could be bad. Having too warm of
fermenting
temperature will also facilitate the growth of unwanted
micro-organisms, which may give the wine an off-flavor.
But, if
you had a fast fermentation because you pre-started your
yeast,
then no harm is done.
Having said this, there is really no advantages to
having a fast
fermentation in of itself. Of course you get to bottle
your wine
sooner with a faster fermentation, but I know of no
studies that
have indicate "fast" is better or worse than "slow."
Related Articles:
-- To read about the other "Top 10 Reasons For
Fermentation
Failure," go to the following link on our web site:
"Top Ten
Reasons For Fermentation Failure"
-- To read more about how to use a hydrometer, see the
following
article listed on our web site:
"Hydrometer
Scales And What They Mean"
-- To read more about pre-starting your yeast, see the
following
article listed on our web site:
"Using
Yeast Starters For Improved Fermentation"
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*WINE MAKING QUICK TIP*
- Storing your dried wine yeast in the refrigerator is a
great way
to extend its shelf-life.
Keeping wine yeast at 45 degrees F.
instead of 70 to 80 degrees will allow the yeast to stay
fresh
for at least 2 years. We do not recommend using a packs
of yeast
that are older then one year, if they have not been kept
if the
refrigerator.
It is important to note here that you should never
freeze your
wine yeast. Freezing yeast damages their cell walls
making
budding or multiplying very difficult. The end result
will be a
fermentation that is sluggish and drawn out.
- For more information about the yeast we offer, go to
the
following link on our web site:
Wine Yeasts
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*ADDITIONAL HOME WINE MAKING INFORMATION*
- If you are new to home wine making and would like more
general
information about making wine at home, see the following
article
listed on our web site:
"How
To Get Started Making Wine"
- For a listing of our home wine making recipes, go to
our
"Home
Wine Making Recipe Page"
- Also, for a general overview of the home wine making
process
see the article
"The
Seven Easy Steps To Making Wine"
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*VISIT US ON-LINE*
Visit our web site at www.eckraus.com to view the complete line
of products we have to offer. All products are listed
with
detailed information so you can learn as you shop.
Purchase
products on-line with our completely secure shopping
cart. Never
has shopping on the web been more safe.
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*NEWSLETTER ARCHIVES*
If you would like to look through previous issues of
this
newsletter go to our:
"Home Wine
Making Articles Page"
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* The E. C. Kraus Home Wine Making Newsletter is
produced by:
E. C. Kraus
Home Wine & Beer Making Supplies
733 S. Northern Blvd.
Post Office Box 7850
Independence, MO 64054
Phone: 1-800-383-1906
Fax: 1-816-254-7051
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* Copyright(c) 2004, Kraus Sales, L.L.C. All rights
reserved.
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