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IN THIS ISSUE:

* Top 10 Reasons For Fermentation Failure
* What Is A Refractometer?
* A Few Words About Nutrients
* Wine Making Quick Tips

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*TOP 10 REASONS FOR FERMENTATION FAILURE*

This is our David Letterman approach to helping you avoid having a fermentation failure. The following list is the top 10 reasons for having a slow or non-existing fermentation. They are listed in order from most likely to least likely.

1. THE FERMENTATION TEMPERATURE IS TOO HOT OR TOO COLD.
Yeast like to ferment between 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit, 72 degrees being ideal. Fermentations that are too cool become sluggish or will not ferment at all. Fermentations that are too warm will perform slowly and may produce off-flavors, and in extreme cases may not ferment as well.

2. ADDING TOO MUCH SUGAR.
Yeast needs sugar to produce alcohol, but too much of a good thing can be bad. When sugar concentration levels are too high, the sugars stops acting as a food source for the yeast and starts acting as a preservative instead, inhibiting the fermentation. The maximum initial Specific Gravity reading we would recommend is 1.090. Anything higher is potentially a problem.

3. IMPROPER YEAST STARTING METHOD.
Many packets of yeast instruct the user to re-hydrate the yeast in warm water for a few minutes before using. When following these directions perfectly there are no problems. But quite often we run into situations were the water temperature used for re-hydration was too hot and not verified with a thermometer, killing a significant portion of the yeast. Temperature is critical to having a successful starter. We do not recommend re-hydration temperatures higher than 95 degrees, which by the way is Luke warm to the touch. Secondly, if the re-hydration process was skipped altogether it would not cause any problems, the yeast would simply take a little longer to start fermenting.

4. SEALING UP THE FERMENTATION CONTAINER AFTER ADDING SULFITES.
Most wine making recipes instruct the winemaker to add sulfites such as Sodium Bisulfite or Campden Tablets to the juice 24 hour before adding the yeast. This is to destroy any molds or contaminants that may be lingering in the juice. During this 24 hour period the fermentation container should be covered only with a towel so as to let the evaporating sulfites dissipate into the air. If the fermentation container is sealed with a lid or an air-lock during this waiting period, the sulfites will remain trapped in the juice and will kill all or a significant portion of the yeast when it is later added.

5. USING AN AIR-LOCK DURING THE PRIMARY FERMENTATION
During the first few days of fermentation, the yeast is in a multiplying phase. For the yeast to multiply to it fullest ability, it needs oxygen, an aerobic fermentation. This is why an air-lock should NOT be used on a fermentation until it is noticeably subsiding. (Usually after 5-7 days) Using an air-lock during the beginning fermentation stages will lead to a sluggish, under-yeasted fermentation. Instead, simply cover the container with a secured towel or something similar.

6. LACK OF NUTRIENTS
There are certain types of musts that present a real challenge for a wine yeast. When making wines from grapes and other fruits that are very similar to grapes such as berries, wine yeasts have little trouble performing, particularly when a simple form of Yeast Nutrient is added. But, when fermenting musts made up of things such as honey, dandelion, watermelon, vegetables and others produce that are dissimilar to grapes, attention should be given to the nutrients that are being supplied to the wine yeast. We recommend using Yeast Energizer along with our Gostex at full dose in these types of situations.


7. FERMENTATION IS ALREADY DONE
This reason is being thrown in as "food for thought" rather than as a cause to a problem. When fermentation temperatures are on the high side of normal, 74 to 79 degrees, they can take off and ferment quite rapidly. There have been cases where the fermentation had already obtained more than 10 percent alcohol and consumed all available sugars in just 4 or 5 days. So if your fermentation has appeared to have stopped, the first plan of action should be to take a hydrometer reading to determine if in fact it is stuck or complete.

8. YEAST HAS REACHED ITS LIMITS
During a fermentation as alcohol levels rise, wine yeast has to struggle harder and harder with each additional percent of alcohol it produces. If you've ever seen a Tractor Pull, you can think of a fermentation as a single pull. It takes off with little hesitation, but as it grinds down to the end and resistance becomes greater and greater, there comes the point when the yeast just has to shut down, regardless of how much sugar may be left. Expect wine yeasts to be able to produce up to 12-13 percent alcohol. Anything beyond that, your on your own.

9. USING DISTILLED WATER
Using bottled water to make your wine is fine, and in some cases pre-ferred, depending upon what's in your tap water. But not all bottled waters are the same. Some have been distilled and that's a bad thing for the winemaker. During the distilling process all of the free oxygen is removed from the water. When used in a fermentation the yeast simply cannot flourish because of the oxygen deficiency. Also, when water is distilled all of the minerals and organic compounds are removed, slighting the yeast of these valuable nutrients.


10. YEAST IS TOO OLD
Wine yeast that is kept at room temperature is good for up to a year. If it is kept in the refrigerator, it is good for up to two years. (Do not freeze yeast) Yeast that is older than this may still be okay, but the risk is not worth the savings. If you think your yeast may be old it is always best to replace it with fresh stock.

I hope this helps you out. There are many more potential reasons why a fermentation won't start, but in my experience these 10 reasons cover over 95 percent of the problems we run across. Also, realize that it may be a combination of more than one of the above.

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*WHAT IS A REFRACTOMETER?*

A refractometer is an instrument that tells you how much sugar is in your juice by measuring how much light bends through a sample of it. And what's more, you only need two or three drop of the juice to take the reading.

This is a very handy instrument for the grape grower. By taking strategic readings throughout the vineyard, the grape grower can determine the optimum time to pick the grapes.

For more information on our Refractometer go to:
Refractometer

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*A FEW WORD ABOUT NUTRIENTS*

One of the nutrients naturally lacking in most wines is nitrogen. Having sufficient nitrogen in the fermentation allows yeast to reproduce more readily. The higher the rate of reproduction, the higher the wine’s rate of fermentation. Nitrogen also helps the yeast to produce higher levels of natural enzymes, which means your wine will clear and age quicker. Having plenty of nitrogen will also increase the yeast’s tolerance to alcohol.

The most common source of nitrogen is Yeast Nutrient it comes either in powder or tablet form. Yeast Nutrient supplies nitrogen to the yeast in the singular form of a phosphate. Yeast Nutrient is sufficient for make wines from grapes and other fruits that are similar to grapes such as currants and berries.

In certain situations Yeast Energizer may be more beneficial than Yeast Nutrient. Just like Yeast Nutrient, the Energizer supplies the wine yeast with much needed nitrogen, but from a wider range of nutrients than just phosphate. Yeast Energizer contains over a dozen yeast extractive proteins, along with B1 Vitamin, and di-ammonium phosphate. All are valuable sources of nitrogen.

Yeast Energizer should be used when fermenting certain types of wines such as meads, vegetables, herbs, etc. The more the produce is unlike grapes, the more likely Energizer will be of benefit. Unlike grapes, these type of musts are typically deficient in the set of nutrients wine yeast are used to receiving. Yeast Energizer compensates for these deficiencies.

Another essential nutrient that aids the fermentation process is lipid. Lipid is what makes up the outer wall of the yeast cell. Every time a yeast cell reproduces itself (budding), a single yeast cell is split in half to form two cells. During the budding process the amount of lipid available for each cell is cut by half. So as available lipid is decreased through each generation of budding, the ability of a yeast cell to reproduce itself diminishes.

Ghostex is a product we offer that is designed to replenish the supply of lipid to the yeast during its reproductive stage. This will help to eliminate a sluggish fermentation later on. Ghostex also causes the yeast to remain suspended longer. This will be a beneficial factor later in the fermentation as alcohol levels rise and sugar levels fall.

For more information about nutrients go to:
Nutrients
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*WINE MAKING QUICK TIPS*

- Use our Senior Air-Lock during the more active period of a secondary fermentation to keep up with the higher volumes of gases that are being released. As the fermentation slows down, switch to our Triple Bubbler Air-Lock, to help detect slighter amounts of fermentation. To view our air-locks go to:
Air Locks

- When taking a hydrometer reading, give the hydrometer a quick spin in the liquid to be tested. This is to dislodge any bubbles that may be clinging to the side of the hydrometer, which can throw off the reading slightly.

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*ADDITIONAL HOME WINE MAKING INFORMATION*

- If you are new to home wine making and would like more general
information about making wine at home, see the following article

listed on our web site:

 "How To Get Started Making Wine"

- For a listing of our home wine making recipes, go to our

"Home Wine Making Recipe Page"

- Also, for a general overview of the home wine making process
see the article

 "The Seven Easy Steps To Making Wine"


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*VISIT US ON-LINE*

Visit our web site at www.eckraus.com to view the complete line
of products we have to offer. All products are listed with
detailed information so you can learn as you shop. Purchase
products on-line with our completely secure shopping cart. Never
has shopping on the web been more safe.

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*NEWSLETTER ARCHIVES*

If you would like to look through previous issues of this
newsletter go to our:

"Home Wine Making Articles Page"

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* The E. C. Kraus Home Wine Making Newsletter is produced by:

E. C. Kraus
Home Wine & Beer Making Supplies
733 S. Northern Blvd.
Post Office Box 7850
Independence, MO 64054
Phone: 1-800-383-1906
Fax: 1-816-254-7051

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* Copyright(c) 2002, Kraus Sales, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
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