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MAKING HIGH ALCOHOL WINES
One of the advantages of making your own wines at home
is that you get
to make it the way YOU want it. And
controlling the alcohol level is no
exception.
While we have many customers who like their wines at
about 8 to 10
percent alcohol, we have just as many, if
not more, who prefer their wines
with higher alcohol
levels, 13% and higher. Here is some information to
help
put your fermentations into high gear for achieving
maximum alcohol.
-Being Realistic
First of all, when making a high alcohol wine, you have
to resign yourself
to the fact that you are fighting an
uphill battle. This is because wine
yeast has been bred
for decades to produce wines that are 10 to 13
percent
alcohol, just like the wines you'll find at the store.
So when you
attempt to make wines that are beyond 13%,
you must understand that it
is necessary to nurture the
fermentation along.
You must also have a realistic view of how much alcohol
you can expect
to make. There have been times on rare
occasions when 19 or 20 per-
cent has been obtain, but in
reality 15 or 16 percent is closer to the norm
and 17 or
18 percent is usually considered a godsend. Also, be
prepared
for fermentations that just can't do much
beyond 13 or 14 percent.
Different fruits, mix of
nutrients and overall fermentation environment
contribute to the unpredictability of a fermentation.
- Increasing The Flavor
The flavor intensity of the wine, whether it comes from
grapes, water-
melons, blackberries or whatever, needs to
be boosted in wines that are
intended to have high
alcohol. This is to help keep the wine's character
in
balance.
Higher alcohol levels numb the taste buds more so than
normal when
these wines are consumed, making a normally
flavored wine taste watery
through no fault of its own.
When making these types of wines use more
of the fruit
when possible. For example, instead of using 3 or 4
pounds
of blackberries for each gallon of wine, try
using 5 or 6 pounds instead.
- How Do I Track The Alcohol Being Made?
Using a hydrometer is key to controlling the
fermentation and tracking the
alcohol that is being
made. Trying to make high alcohol wine without a
hydrometer is like driving at night without headlights,
you will be left in
the blind.
While there are usually two or three different scales on
a hydrometer, the
one we are concerned with - as a high
alcohol winemaker - is the
"Potential Alcohol" scale
found on any wine making hydrometer.
The Potential Alcohol scale is simply a listing of
numbers, usually, from 0
to 20. By tracking how much
your readings move across the scale
throughout the
fermentation you can determine how much alcohol has
been
made.
For example, if you take a reading of 12% on the scale
before the wine's
fermentation starts and then take
another reading at the end of ferment-
ation of 0%, then
your wine has 12% alcohol because it moved 12 point
across the scale. It's that simple.
For more information on our Sugar Scale Hydrometer which
has the
Potential Alcohol Scale among others go to:
Sugar Scale Hydrometer
- Adding Sugar For High Alcohol
Many recipes will find for producing high alcohol wines
will call for 2 or 3
pounds of sugar per each gallon.
And, this is in addition to the sugars
that are already
being naturally provided by the fruit involved. Adding
all
this sugar at the beginning of fermentation can
result in a big problem.
Sugar is what the yeast turns into alcohol. So it stands
to reason that you
need a lot of sugar to make a lot of
alcohol. But, when all the sugar is
added at the
beginning of fermentation, the concentration levels can
be
so high that the sugar can actually inhibit the
fermentation. The sugar
literally start acting as a
preservative.
One easy way around this problem is to feed the sugar
throughout the
duration of the fermentation. For
example, add enough sugar in the
beginning to get the
fermentation going. Then as the fermentation slows
down,
feed more sugar to it every few days until all the sugar
called for in
the recipe has been added. Optionally, you
can keep adding sugar to the
fermentation until the
yeast has reached its limits.
When feeding sugar to a fermentation, the hydrometer can
be a big help.
When the Potential Alcohol reading gets
close to zero, that is your cue to
feed more sugar to
the fermentation. In turn, the sugar will raise the
reading again and the fermentation will again try to
ferment towards zero
on the scale.
This process can go on for several rounds before the
yeast simply quits.
But without the hydrometer, feeding
sugar can be risky. You may be add-
ing sugar to a wine
that already has too much and is just slowing down
because the yeast has reached it's limits instead of
running out of sugar.
The result can be a wine that is
sweeter than you like.
- Example Run-Through
1. Lets say you have a starting Potential Alcohol
reading of 10%. Eight
days later you have a reading of
1%. This means you now have made 9%
alcohol, because the
fermentation moved nine points across the Potential
Alcohol scale.
2. You then add more sugar bringing the hydrometer
reading back up to
5%. Two weeks later it reads 1%. Now
you have made another 4% on top
of the 9% for a total of
13, because the fermentation moved four more
points
across the scale.
3. Again, you add sugar to the fermentation bring the
reading back up to
3%, and the fermentation struggles on
for another 3 weeks, but finally
gets down to zero
bringing your total alcohol level to 16%, which is
calculated as follows: 9%+4%+3%.
The whole point here is to maintain lower sugar levels
during the ferment-
ation so that the yeast can work more
freely without the force of the sugar
acting as a
preservative. Also, feeding the sugar in this way helps
you to
be sure that you are not ending up with a wine
that is too sweet for your
taste. Wines that are
considered extremely sweet are still only reading
around
3% on the hydrometer's Potential Alcohol scale. A normal
sweet
wine will be around 1% while dry wines will read
around -1%.
- Other Little Secrets
Here are some other tips for producing wines with high
alcohol levels.
1. Pre-Start The Yeast. Make a wine yeast starter 1 to 2
days before you
start the wine. This allows the yeast to
hit the wine with its feet running -
so to speak.
A yeast starter is simply a mixture of sugars with a
boosted level of
nutrients, usually about 1 pint in size
for every 5 gallons of wine to be
made. Just mix it up,
add the yeast, and allow it to do a mini-fermentation.
Once the starter's fermentation starts to slow down, it
is then ready to
be added to the prepared wine batch,
usually around 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 days.
We offer a product called Winemaker's Quick Starter
which is a mixture
of yeast foods and nutrients designed
just for making such a starter. We
highly recommend
using it in situations where high alcohol is desired.
For more information about our Winemaker's Quick Starter
go to:
Winemaker's Quick Starter
2. Maintain Warmer Fermentation Temperatures. Normally,
we recom-
mend 72 degrees Fahrenheit as the optimum
temperature for a ferment-
ation. However, in the case of
producing higher alcohol wines it would be
best to shoot
for a range between 74 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. This
slightly warmer temperature range will help to keep the
yeast invigorated,
particularly when it reaches the end
of its ability.
Fermentation temperatures that are cooler will cause the
fermentation to
be slower and may even stop all
together. Fermentation temperatures
that are higher can
result in off-flavors in the wine, and in extreme cases
hinder the fermentation as well.
3. Provide Plenty Of Air. During the primary
fermentation, keep the ferment-
ation vessel open to air.
Just cover it with a light towel or something similar.
This air exposure will
help the yeast to multiply more successfully and give
it more energy to do the
tasked ahead. Once you rack the wine to a
secondary fermenter it is
then okay to attach an air-lock.
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E. C. Kraus
Home Wine & Beer Making Supplies
Address: 733 S. Northern
Blvd. - P. O. Box 7850 - Independence, MO 64053
Phone:(816) 254-7448
Fax:(816) 254-7051 Toll Free: (800) 353-1906
Email:
customerservice@eckraus.com
Copyright (c) 2003, Kraus
Sales, L. L. C. All rights reserved. This article may be
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